If you have a problem with HomeVision/HomeVision-Pro or a technical question about it, read this page first. It addresses over 95% of the problems and questions users might have. If this page doesn’t help, see our main technical support page.

NOTE: Unless stated otherwise, this information applies to both HomeVision and HomeVision-Pro.

Problems and Questions

X-10:

Infrared:

Input/output ports:

Video system:

Digital temperature sensors:

RCS thermostats:

GE (CADDX) NetworX security system:

Other hardware issues:

Software issues:

Programming issues:

Answers

X-10

Problem:  Communications/control problems

Response:  The vast majority of X-10 problems are due to noise or signal degradation within the home’s AC power lines. Read our "X-10 debugging tips" application note (PDF format) for assistance in debugging all types of X-10 problems. This addresses over 95% of all X-10 questions we receive.

Also, be sure you understand the difference between the HomeVision X-10 "Force" commands and the regular commands. A command like "Force On" will always transmit an X-10 ON signal, while the regular "On" command won’t transmit if HomeVision thinks the device is already on. In most situations, you should use the "Force" command to guarantee HomeVision transmits a signal.

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t tracking the status of my lights properly

Response:  Whenever HomeVision transmits or receive an X-10 signal, it determines the new state the light (or device) should be in. However, if someone manually controls a light at the wall switch, HomeVision cannot normally detect this change, and HomeVision will not know the new state. A very small number of switches can transmit an ON or OFF signal when they are changed manually, and HomeVision can track such switch. However, moat of the "two-way" switches transmit their status as "extended codes". The X-10 interface module (TW-523 or equivalent) can detect that an extended code was sent, but it cannot read the data (which tells the light level). Therefore, HomeVision will not be able to track manual changes to these switches.

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t performing my actions when it transmits an X-10 signal

Response:  You can specify actions for HomeVision to perform when it receives X-10 on and off signals.  These are called "On actions" and "Off actions" . These actions are only performed when HomeVision receives them. They are not performed when HomeVision transmits them (although HomeVision will check to see that its transmission goes out OK, it does not consider these as received signals).

Infrared

Problem: Learned signals transmitted by HomeVision don’t control my A/V equipment

Response:  If you are having problems with HomeVision learning an infrared (IR) signal and controlling your equipment, try the following things:

1. If you learn a signal several times, are you getting consistent signal information (i.e., the same number of pulses and signal length)? If not, you could be getting infrared noise interfering with the learning process. See the "HomeVision IR RX LED is flashing frequently" topic for information on solving this problem.
2. Check the "Learn carrier frequency" box to make HomeVision measure the signal’s carrier frequency. You then must hold the remote within a few inches of HomeVision while learning. If HomeVision reports a carrier frequency between 35kHz and 45kHz for a particular remote, it probably isn’t necessary for HomeVision to measure it for the other buttons. All the buttons use the same frequency, and HomeVision’s default frequency of 38.4kHz should work fine. But if it’s outside this range, learning the frequency for each signal will improve performance.
3. When pressing the remote button, try some quick presses or some slightly longer presses. Note the number of pulses reported on the learn screen. If you press different buttons, you will usually see a pattern. For example, if you press any of the buttons very quickly, you may get 13 pulses. If you press any a little longer, you get 26 pulses. And if you hold even longer, you get 39 pulses for all the buttons. This is because most remotes repeat the same signal several times. In most cases, HomeVision only needs to receive one set (13 pulses in this example) in order for it to control your equipment. However, some equipment requires two or three sets. Let’s say you’re able to get one signal to work right, but only if it has 39 pulses. It’s likely the other buttons will be the same way. So when learning them, press the button a little longer so you get the same number of pulses for these. But if 13 pulses work fine for one signal, learn the others the same way.
4. Some users have had success using another remote to teach HomeVision instead of the original remote. For example, if you have a universal (preprogrammed) remote, set it up to control your equipment. Then, use it to teach HomeVision.
5. One HomeVision user has created a program that can convert Pronto (a remote control from Phillips) IR codes into the HomeVision format. If you know the Pronto code for a signal, you can use this program to create a HomeVision IR file, then import the signal(s) into your HomeVision schedule. This eliminates the need for HomeVision to learn the signal. For more information on this program (IRLEdit), see this web page: http://home.wanadoo.nl/sbron/ and look for the "infrared code converter".

Problem:  The signal worked right when transmitted from the "IR Learn" screen, but not from elsewhere in the software or my schedule

Response:  After learning a signal, you must save it (using the "Save" button on the "IR Learn" screen), and then download the schedule into the controller.

Problem:  Unable to receive learned IR signals

Response:  Make sure you have enabled this feature. Use the "Controller Settings" screen under the "Configure" menu. Select the "Infrared" tab, and in the "Receive learned IR signals" box, check "Enable this capability". The other settings can probably be left unchanged. Then download the schedule into the controller. Note that these settings are stored in your Windows registry, not your HomeVision schedule file. Therefore, if you install HomeVision on a new PC, or install a new Windows version on your PC, you will have to redo the settings.

If HomeVision is properly receiving and responding to some learned IR signals but not others, try the following:

Problem: HomeVision IR RX LED is flashing frequently

Response:  This means the HomeVision infrared receiver is picking up infrared or electrical noise. It can come from nearby fluorescent or bright incandescent lights, and sometimes even bright sunshine. The LED flashes on any IR energy, even if it’s not a remote signal. As long as it happens only occasionally, it won't pose any problem. If it happens continually, it will interfere with receiving and learning IR signals. You should be able to determine the IR source by turning lights on and off and reorienting the controller. Try the following:

Question:  Can I connect IR emitters directly to the IR TX jack?

Response: 

HomeVision-Pro:

Yes.

HomeVision: 

With the newer HomeVision units, yes. It's important to understand how HomeVision drives the output jack (there's a schematic in the IR chapter of the owner’s manual). It's a 5V output. With the newer HomeVision design (part number 1203C), there is a 75 Ohm resistor in series with the output to limit the current in case of a short circuit. We recommend you use this output to drive an amplified IR "connecting block", which in turn would drive your IR emitters. Alternatively, you can plug a single emitter directly in the IR TX jack (most "double" emitters will also work, but we can’t guarantee that they all will).

You can also put several emitters in parallel as long as they don’t require too much current. You normally don’t need a resistor with each emitter since HomeVision already limits the current. The total current is dictated by the voltage drop across the emitter, which is typically around 1.5V. This results in a total current of about 47ma [ 3.5V (5V – 1.5V emitter drop) divided by 75 Ohms]. The more emitters you have, the lower the current through each. Most "mini-emitters" are designed to work on 10ma or less, so 4 or 5 emitters should work OK. Another thing to note is that the emitters should all be the same type. If not, and one has a lower voltage drop than the others, it will draw all the current and the other emitters won’t work. This is one reason we recommend using a connecting block.

With the older HomeVision design (part number 1203A), there’s no current limiting resistor in series with the IR TX output. It can drive emitters directly, if you add a current limiting resistor in series with each. Most mini-emitters work on 5 to 25mA, so a 200 to 1000 ohm resistor would be sufficient. Since the 1203A HomeVision has no built-in resistor, this output can drive many more emitters than the newer 1203C version. The output jack can provide up to 100mA while HomeVision is also transmitting from the built-in IR LED. If you remove jumper J1 from the circuit board to disable the LED, the output jack can drive 200mA.

Problem:  I can’t get the IR TX jack to drive my IR distribution system

Response: 

HomeVision:

The HomeVision IR TX jack output is approximately 5V when transmitting IR, and open at all other times. If the jack is the sole source driving a connecting block, it should work fine. However, if you connect other distribution equipment (such as an IR receiver) to the same connecting block input that HomeVision is connected to, problems could result. This is because IR receivers and other distribution systems commonly use a 12V signal, and connecting this signal directly to HomeVision could cause current to flow into HomeVision, impacting operation.

In this case, you should put a diode in series with the HomeVision IR output to prevent current flow into HomeVision. Any "signal", "switching", or "rectifier" diode will work, and you can find these at Radio Shack and any online electronics parts distributor. The diode cathode (the end with a line on it) connects to the connecting block input (which is the same as the external IR receiver wire) and the other end (the anode) connects to the HomeVision IR output. Most of the Xantech products output 12V, so a diode is recommended with them.

HomeVision-Pro:

The HomeVision-Pro IR TX jack output is approximately 12V when transmitting IR, and open at all other times.  This should work fine with all IR distribution systems.

Input/Output Ports

Problem:  Connecting voltage inputs to Port B (or Multifunction Expansion Board Port 1)

Response: 

HomeVision:

These inputs have 2700 Ohm "pullup" resistors connected to 5V. This makes it easy connect switches to them, but it can be more difficult to connect devices that output voltages. The input chips also draw a good deal of current to ground. This drops the voltage to around 3V (which is read as "high") when the input is not connected. If you connect a switch (or other contact closure) from the input to ground, it pulls the voltage to 0V, which is read as "low". This is how most users use these inputs, and it works fine.

When you apply a signal that’s 12V (or another voltage) when activated, the input goes even higher than 3V, and is read as "high". If the input signal goes to ground when not activated, then it would be read as "low", and this will work fine. However, if instead it opens when not activated (as many devices do), HomeVision can't distinguish between the two conditions, as they’re both "high". Ideally, we should have allowed you to remove the pullup resistor, but we didn’t (actually, you can remove them on the Multifunction Expansion Board, as discussed later). So how can you make this work? What you have to do is add a resistor from the input to ground. The idea is to drop the voltage (when the input is open) to less than 1V so it's read as a low. Resistors between 560 and 680 Ohms are ideal, but values as high as 1000 Ohms (1K) will normally also work.

On HomeVision, the 2700 Ohm "pullup" resistors are soldered to the board and are difficult to remove. However, on the Multifunction Expansion Board, the Port 1 (or "D") resistors are in a 16-pin DIP package in circuit location U3. If you want to use all of these inputs for voltages (instead of switch closures), you can remove this part. You then won’t need to add the extra resistors mentioned in the above paragraph. If you only want to use some of the inputs for voltages, it is possible (with care) to bend up certain leads to keep them out of the socket. Each of the 8 leads on one side of the chip go to one input port, so bend up the lead(s) for inputs where you want to remove the resistor(s).

HomeVision-Pro:

These inputs have 2200 Ohm "pullup" resistors connected to 5V.  When connecting devices that output voltages, use the configuration switches to disable the pullup resistor(s).

Problem: Input port seems to react slowly

Response:  The HomeVision and HomeVision-Pro Port C inputs, and the Multifunction Expansion Board Port 2 and 3 inputs, are very sensitive. This means that a low voltage will "pull" the input low while drawing very low current (which means it won’t affect the circuit being read). When nothing is connected to these inputs, they "float" to near 5V, and are read as "high" by HomeVision. Normally, HomeVision will detect the input port change within 10 milliseconds (0.01 seconds) of the input actually changing. However, certain devices (such as TV sensor probes) can cause the input to take a little while longer to change state. We’ve heard reports of up to several seconds delay with some TV probes.

You can speed up the change by adding a resistor. A resistor value of 4000 to 25000 Ohms is ideal, although higher values will probably also work. The resistor should be connected between the input port and 5V.

Question:  Do I need to use a digital BOB (break out box) with sensor probes?

Response:  No. The BOB, from SmartHome, doesn’t provide any real benefit (and actually creates problems) when used with HomeVision. The sensor probes can be connected directly to HomeVision without the BOB. One popular way to connect them to HomeVision is with a cable with a 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and wires on the other end. If you don’t have such as cable, you can get a cable with a 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and plug on the other end and cut it in two. The sensor’s plug can plug into the cable jack, and the cable’s wires connect to the HomeVision input terminal blocks. If you don’t have a cable, you can cut the probes wires and connect them to the HomeVision input terminal blocks. See our application note on SmartLinc probes for more details.

If you do use the BOB, you will probably need to add a resistor to each output. It appears that when a probe is off, the BOB output is an open circuit (instead of being pulled to ground). Under this condition, the HomeVision input goes "high", just as when the probe is on. To make the BOB work right, you must add a resistor from the BOB output (i.e., the HomeVision input) to ground to pull it low when the probe is off. If you use input Port B, resistor values between 560 and 680 Ohms are ideal, but values as high as 1000 Ohms (1K) will normally also work. The BOB actually works better on input Port C, which is more sensitive than Port B. With Port C, use a resistor between 4000 and 25000 Ohms (higher values will probably also work).

Problem: Some inputs stopped working

Response:  First, disconnect any wiring from the input port so you can properly test it. With the input disconnected, the port should be read as a "high". Connect a wire from the input to HomeVision ground and the port should go "low". If it does, the port is OK. If it does not work, read the next paragraph.

A malfunctioning input is usually due to damage to the port interface chip. This can be caused by applying too high of a voltage to the input or by nearby lightning strikes. See the following for information on each input port:

Note: See this web page for more information on where to obtain replacement parts.

Problem: Analog inputs are not working

Response:  Here's one way to test the HomeVision-Pro or Multifunction Expansion Board analog inputs:

1. For HomeVision-Pro, add 4 variables to hold the 4 input values.  For the Multifunction Expansion Board, add 8 variables to hold the 8 input values.
2. Add a periodic event running every loop.
3. In the periodic event, include these commands (using your own variable numbers) to read the inputs:

      Variable #1 (Analog input 1) = Analog input 1
      Variable #2 (Analog input 2) = Analog input 2
      Variable #3 (Analog input 3) = Analog input 3
      Variable #4 (Analog input 4) = Analog input 4
      Variable #5 (Analog input 5) = Analog input 5
      Variable #6 (Analog input 6) = Analog input 6
      Variable #7 (Analog input 7) = Analog input 7
      Variable #8 (Analog input 8) = Analog input 8

You can then view the variable values on the TV variable screen or from the software's "Variables & Flags" control screen.  With a wire, connect one input at a time to ground and verify the variable value goes to 0.   Then connect one input at a time to 5V and verify the value goes to 255.

A malfunctioning input is usually due to damage to one of the two analog input chips, part number PCF8591. On the Multifunction Expansion Board, one chip (circuit location U18) reads inputs 1-4; the other chip (U19) reads inputs 5-8. If you swap these chips and the problem moves with the chip, you will know which one is bad. If the problem stays with the same port, the problem is more severe (a PCF8574 chip is likely damaged). On HomeVision-Pro, the chip is in circuit location U2.

Note: See this web page for more information on where to obtain replacement parts.

Problem:  A Port A output stopped working

Response:  If the output previously worked, then stopped, the HomeVision output chip is likely damaged. This usually occurs due to an incorrect connection, which can sometimes visibly damage the part (it might even start to melt or get a hole in it!)

Port A is driven by one main chip, part number ULN2803A (in circuit location U4 on 1203A boards and U3 on 1203C boards). One of these chips is also used on the Multifunction Expansion Board. If you happen to have one of these boards, you could try its ULN2803A chip in HomeVision to see if it fixes the Port A problem, thus verifying the defective chip. If the problem remains, the damage to HomeVision is more severe (the 82C55 chip is likely damaged).

Note: See this web page for more information on where to obtain replacement parts.

Video system

Problem:  Video screen has scrolling lines on it

Response:  We’ve had several reports of the HomeVision TV menu having two white lines (spaced about 1/2 the vertical height of the display apart) that slowly and continuously scroll from the bottom to top of the screen. In some cases this was caused by a defective wall transformer (power supply). In other cases, it was due to a "ground loop" between HomeVision and one or more devices connected to it. Ground loops can be difficult to solve. If you suspect this problem, you might do a web search on "ground loops" to look for advice.

Question:  Can HomeVision work with S-video signals?

Response:  Not directly - HomeVision requires a "composite" video signal. However, there are converters available that can convert between these two video formats. With these, you could connect S-video signals to HomeVision.

Question:  Can I overlay the HomeVision video onto all my TV channels?

Response:  No, not exactly. HomeVision can overlay text onto one video signal. If you use a cable box, satellite decoder, VCR, digital video recorder, or other device as your video source, HomeVision can overlay text onto this signal. The video output of the source device would pass though HomeVision. This requires the source to provide a regular composite video output, and that you use that source to change channels. With this setup, you don’t use your TV’s tuner.

If you want more than one TV to see the HomeVision video, you can use a modulator and then distribute the modulated signal to all of your TVs. This would put the HomeVision video onto its own channel, and any TV could then view that channel. However, the HomeVision video text would not be overlaid onto each TV’s current picture. To do that, each TV would require it’s own HomeVision unit, plus an external video source.

Note that the coax cable from your cable company or antenna contain all channels modulated into a high frequency range. You cannot connect this to the HomeVision video input (even if you get an adapter that allowed the connectors to mate, it won’t do anything).

Digital Temperature Sensors

Problem:  I can read the sensors OK from the software screen, but not in my schedule

Response:  Make sure that the "Enable automatic sensor reading" option is checked. If not, HomeVision won’t read the sensors during normal operation. Also, be sure to download the schedule into the controller after making any changes. Finally, remember that you should put commands in your schedule to read the temperature sensors into your own variables. We recommend doing this in a periodic event running every loop. Check to see if the value is 255 (which indicates an error), and if it is, don't put it into your temperature variable. That way, an intermittent error will be ignored. Here's an example:

   Variable #0 (temporary var) = Value of Digital Temperature Sensor 1
   If
      Variable #0 (temporary var) <> 255
   Then
      Variable #1 (Temp Sensor 1) = Variable #0 (temporary var)
   End If

Problem: Intermittent sensor errors

Response:  Digital temperature sensor problems on the Multifunction Expansion Board are usually due to too much wiring capacitance (such problems are much less common with HomeVision-Pro, as it uses an improved drive circuit). There are several ways to improve performance:

Also, we recommend you read the sensors in a periodic event running every loop. Check to see if the value is 255 (which indicates an error), and if it is, don't put it into your temperature variable. That way, an intermittent error will be ignored. Here's an example:

   Variable #0 (temporary var) = Value of Digital Temperature Sensor 1
   If
      Variable #0 (temporary var) <> 255
   Then
      Variable #1 (Temp Sensor 1) = Variable #0 (temporary var)
   End If   

Finally, see the next topic for another problem unique to the newer DS18S20 sensors.

Problem: I get errors with the newer DS18S20 sensors

Response:  The newer DS18S20 temperature sensors are slower than the older DS1820 sensors.  A DS18S20 can take up to 0.75 seconds to determine the temperature, while a DS1820 takes only 0.5 seconds maximum. During normal operations, the controller continually reads the sensors in multi-drop mode (regardless of whether you put any digital temperature sensor commands in your schedule). Each processor "loop", HomeVision checks to see if the sensor has finished calculating the temperature.  If the sensor doesn't respond within a certain time (actually, a certain number of loops), HomeVision gives up and records error number 118.  It will then try to read the sensor again.   HomeVision was designed before the DS18S20 sensor was developed, so it only waits about 0.55 seconds.  As a result, if a new, slower DS18S20 sensor is used, this error may occur. We will modify the HomeVision PROM to allow more time for these slower sensors.  In the meantime, there is a workaround for this problem.  Put a "DELAY 0.005 SECONDS" command in a periodic event running "every loop".  This will slow down the controller slightly, ensuring that it waits long enough.  Note that if you have add-on devices (like HomeVision-Serial or a Multifunction Expansion Board) attached, or you already have some periodic events that run every loop, you may not see these errors because the controller will already be running a little slower and allow time for the DS18S20 to respond.

Note that you can use the Digital Temperature Sensor Configuration Screen in the PC software to read the sensor temperature in multi-drop mode.  When you do this, the controller runs a special function to read the temperature from the sensor, and it waits up to 0.55 seconds for the sensor to respond. With the slower DS18S20 sensors, this may not be long enough, so the controller may give up and report an error.  In this event, the PC software displays the error message "Error reading device. Temperature conversion did not finish". Adding the DELAY statement as recommended above has no effect when reading the temperature from the Digital Temperature Sensor Configuration Screen.  This will also be fixed in the next PROM release.

Problem: I connected the sensor wrong and it got hot

Response:  This is an easy mistake to make. Be sure to note that the connection drawing in the manual (reproduced below) shows the bottom view of the sensor. When you connect it wrong, HomeVision should be OK but the sensor is usually damaged. Even if it seems to work after you reconnect it, we recommend replacing the sensor to prevent future problems.

RCS X-10 Thermostats

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t controlling my RCS TX10/15 thermostat

Response:  Possible causes:

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t tracking status of my RCS TX10B/15B thermostat (but can control it OK)

Response:  The following trouble-shooting steps may help to resolve this problem:

1. In the HomeVision software, open the "Controller Commands" screen under the "Control" menu. Perform the "Enable master report mode" command and "Enable X-10 report mode" command. This ensures that the HomeVision controller will report any received X-10 signals to the PC. If you’re sure these modes are already enabled, you do not need to perform this step.
2. In the HomeVision software, open the "Terminal Emulator" screen under the "Other" menu.
3. At the thermostat keypad, change the temperature setpoint, system mode, or fan mode. After a couple of seconds, the thermostat should transmit an X-10 signal indicating the change.
4. View the Terminal Emulator screen. It should show any X-10 messages HomeVision received. Typical messages for mode changes from the thermostat will look like this:

If the LED doesn’t blink, then the thermostat did not transmit a signal. Possible causes are:

If the LED blinks, view the Terminal Emulator screen again to check for the X-10 message. If HomeVision still didn’t receive it, there is probably an X-10 noise or signal degradation problem that is preventing the thermostat’s transmission from getting to HomeVision. Refer to our ‘X-10 debugging tips" application note (PDF format) for assistance in debugging such problems.

Also note that if you have a TX15B thermostat, you must disable HomeVision's "automatic reading" function to prevent it from periodically polling the thermostat (the TX15B will automatically report changes). You can do this from the "Thermostat Configuration" screen by unchecking the "Enable automatic reading" checkbox.

RCS Serial Thermostats

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t controlling my RCS serial thermostat

Response:  First, if you are using a HomeVision add-on serial port (i.e., HomeVision-Serial or HomeVision-Phone/Serial), verify that the HomeVision controller is communicating with the add-on port OK.  You can do this by checking for an error message.  From the Other menu, select the Status Screen.  On the Controller Status tab, click Read Status to read the status from the controller.  Near the bottom of the General Status section, it will either indicate an error number or say “No controller error”.  If there is an error reported, remove power from the controller and reapply it (this will clear the error message stored in the controller).  Read the status again.  If the error remains, consult the “Miscellaneous” Chapter of the HomeVision Owner’s Manual for details on the error.  Errors with the add-on serial port will usually be reported as error numbers 130 through 132, as shown below:

If you have one of these errors, consult the device installation instructions and verify that it is installed properly.

Assuming the HomeVision controller is communicating with the add-on port OK, or you are using the built-in port, we next need to make sure the port is transmitting messages.  It should be repeatedly transmitting messages that look something like this:

To see what HomeVision is actually transmitting, use one of the methods described in the “Viewing Serial Data” section of our application note “Debugging Serial Communications With Other Devices”.  If you see these messages, then you know HomeVision is properly transmitting them.  If you see garbage characters, then you have the HomeVision baud rate set incorrectly (the RCS thermostat uses 9600 baud).  If you see nothing, then either the cable is connected wrong or your HomeVision schedule is not properly configured for the RCS serial thermostats.  Refer to the Thermostat chapter of the HomeVision manual for configuration details.

If HomeVision is properly transmitting these messages, the RCS thermostat should be sending the proper response. To see what HomeVision is actually receiving from the thermostat, use one of the methods described in the “Viewing Serial Data” section of our application note “Debugging Serial Communications With Other Devices”.  You should see messages like this being received from the RCS thermostat:

or this:

If you see these, then everything should be working properly.  If you do not see any response, the RCS thermostat is probably not transmitting properly.

One way to test an RS232 thermostat is to connect it directly to your PC.  Set the PC's baud rate to 9600 and use the HomeVision Terminal Emulator Screen to send commands to the thermostat and view the response.  The following table shows some commands you can send and an example of the thermostats response message. Note that if you don't have a multi-zone system, the "Z=1" portion of the command may be omitted (this specifies the zone number, 1 in this example).

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t tracking status of my RCS TR36 or TR40 serial thermostat (but can control it OK)

Response:  The serial communications protocol for these thermostats is slightly different than the older RCS serial thermostats. These thermostats require a newer HomeVision or HomeVision-Pro PROM, version 3.42 or higher.

GE (CADDX) NetworX Serial Security System

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t controlling my NetworX serial security system

Response:  First, if you are using a HomeVision add-on serial port (i.e., HomeVision-Serial or HomeVision-Phone/Serial), verify that the HomeVision controller is communicating with the add-on port OK.  You can do this by checking for an error message.  From the Other menu, select the Status Screen.  On the Controller Status tab, click Read Status to read the status from the controller.  Near the bottom of the General Status section, it will either indicate an error number or say “No controller error”.  If there is an error reported, remove power from the controller and reapply it (this will clear the error message stored in the controller).  Read the status again.  If the error remains, consult the “Miscellaneous” Chapter of the HomeVision Owner’s Manual for details on the error.  Errors with the add-on serial port will usually be reported as error numbers 130 through 132, as shown below:

If you have one of these errors, consult the device installation instructions and verify that it is installed properly.

Next, you may want to use the security system control screens on the TV menu system for debugging. Use these screens to verify HomeVision is communicating with the security system properly. If the screen reports a communications error, here are some things to try:

If the problem continues, we need to make sure the HomeVision serial port is transmitting messages to the security system.  It should be repeatedly transmitting messages that look something like this:

         and

To see what HomeVision is actually transmitting, use one of the methods described in the “Viewing Serial Data” section of our application note “Debugging Serial Communications With Other Devices”.  If you see these messages, then you know HomeVision is properly transmitting them.  If you see garbage characters, then you have the HomeVision baud rate set incorrectly (the NetworX security system typically uses 19200 baud, although it can be changed).  If you see nothing, then either the cable is connected wrong or your HomeVision schedule is not properly configured for the NetworX security system.  Refer to the Security Systems chapter of the HomeVision manual for HomeVision configuration details.

If HomeVision is properly transmitting these messages, the security system should be sending the proper response. To see what HomeVision is actually receiving from the security system, use one of the methods described in the “Viewing Serial Data” section of our application note “Debugging Serial Communications With Other Devices”.  You should see messages like this being received from the security system:

         and

If you see these, then everything should be working properly.  If you do not see any response, the security system is probably not transmitting properly. This is most likely due to the NetworX not being configured properly. Refer to the Security Systems chapter of the HomeVision manual and the NetworX documentation for NetworX configuration details.

Problem:  HomeVision isn’t communicating with my NetworX NX-8E

Response:  The NX8E (NX-8E) requires slightly different configuration settings than the NX584 described in the HomeVision manual.  Here are the NX8E settings:
 

After making these changes, you should remove power from the NX8E (including the battery) and then power it back up.

Other Hardware Problems

Problem: